Evian lies on the southern shores of Lake Geneva. Here where the alps meet the inland sea, you have two worlds blending. Or more…
For one thing, you are in France and yet you gaze at Switzerland just over the water. The air on a sunny October day is warm and the mood by the water is lazy Mediterranean, bursting with flowers. Yet behind you are the alps, green pastures, wooden chalets.
At the same time, the past is with you in this spa resort where royalty have “taken the waters” of Evian for over 200 years, along with the later pleasures of casino, French dining, and world-class hotels.
The mineral-rich waters sold all over the world in bottles are still the draw at the Thermes Spa down at the water . Though other Evian hotel spas settle for more ordinary water in their pools, they do offer it to drink in various health-giving permutations.
Meanwhile glory lingers on with grandiose architecture, faded walls, art nouveau flourishes, iron trellises. Steam boats gliding over the lake from Switzerland into France.
Ladies step off the boat and out of history in designer dresses and elegant shoes, proud coiffure. Proud and dignified walk. Along with young Japanese couples on their lifetime photoshoot. French families, British nobles, Swedish golfers, American students…and Russian nouveau riche.
I too arrived by boat. My itinerary with train from Geneva airport, train and boat went:
12.36 Train IC727 departs from platform 1 Geneva airport station
13.18 Train arrives at Lausanne. Tramcar to Lausanne-Ouchy.
14.00 Boat BAV713 from Ouchy pier (first you walk past customs, leaving Switzerland)
14.35 Boat arrives at Evian-les-Bains CGN.
There I was met by the transfer minibus from Hotel Royal at Evian Royal Resort.