White Pearl on the Sands

January 10, 2014 in MOZAMBIQUE | Comments (25)

On the way by sand track

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Wrapped in quiet luxury, White Pearl lies on a sublime beach nestled into gigantic sand dunes on the unspoilt coasts of southern Mozambique

Beaches in Europe never look like this. The restless Indian Ocean has pounded silica and feldspar into sand, and even tiny specks of diamonds lie among wide pristine sands stretching for miles upon miles. Fringing the beaches, gigantic sand dunes are draped with glistening green forests where monkeys, bush babies and tiny antelope live off the land. Trees twist and turn, lianes tangle together, and the feel is breathtakingly wild and primeval, with the sound of birds and pounding of waves.

These beaches are some of the world’s last and most heartbreakingly beautiful wildernesses. Here you share the sands with loggerhead and leatherback turtles who have come in since ages past to lay their eggs, and Southern Right whales spawn offshore-

The waters are tropical as the Trade Winds drive water down the coast from equatorial regions, so there are coral reefs offshore, colorful fish, rays. Dolphins and, for the adventurous, sharks on the reefs

Beach forever

White Pearl Mozambique lies on nearly 40 km of unbroken beach stretching all the way from south of Kosi Bay in South Africa to near the capital Maputo.

The sands are golden with a blush …wide and endless; you would have to walk 18 km along the beach to get to the next little town. Perfect for someone who wants to jog and get fit amidst exquisite beauty. Or just for those who want to wander and pick up seashells on the shore.

At White Pearl you stay in quiet comfort, with divine food, your own pool, and wide views of the sea and sand, yet wrapped in the privacy of exuberant greenery.

Book suite 6 for your honeymoon, your recovery, your treat – that was our favourite. Suite 5 next door is also fabulous, so are all the beachfront suites, and we also favour suite 11 a little up the slope.

The higher rooms have the furthest views, but then you see the other suite rooftops, so if you have a fantasy about returning to the Garden of Eden you will prefer the views that we had, showing nothing but nature beyond your comfy sofa, your bath with a view and your swimming pool on the deck.

This was turtle time, so we shared the beach with the night visitors. Turtle walking tours go in the evenings when the tide is right. People are encouraged not to do their own turtle tours as you have to be very careful not to disturb these creatures on these inherited sands …. The sands of multi-generations before them…

In the southern winter then the whales come, and play and spawn in these waters.
Rain washed out some of the included activities. Instead of the usual short thunder storm in the afternoon, steady warm rain came and went on impulse from iron grey clouds. Nursing colds, we did not dare to go out to sea for dolphin watching. Nor did we go snorkeling, diving with the hotel dive shop or turtle walking. We longingly watched a boat bobbing out over the waves. Heading for a reef and dolphin waters…

But we were still happy. We chose instead to go to the spa. I had a divine hydromassage on a special hydromassage bed.


Waterports, horse riding, snorkling, diving, beach walking, tours to the nearby elephant reserve.

For those who like to swan around in the latest swimwear – be noticed, pop in to little boutiques and markets, eye the lifeguards, this is not your beach.
There are not even any lifeguards.

Nor is it your beach if you want a sea that is glass still like a swimming pool. This is an ocean for those who adore the sense of eternity from the sound of the sea and the tides. For those who like to try surfing, or bobbing up and down on the waves.

The waves surged in evenly, and kids enjoyed floating in the water behind the first breakers, not far from the edge. The rest of us chose to dip in the infinity pool, the beach bar pool or our own pool. Or just sit on our powder blue sofa staring at the waves. This is the way to fill your soul.

A lot of soul is involved in the food too

The head chef is a treasure who comes from the Polano hotel that dates back as a legend to the days as a Portuguese colony. For us he produced imaginative personal menus headed with our names, and built up on our info given to AndBeyond. Along with interviews with us on site through an interpreter (he is Portuguese).

The dining room is all glass to give you the beauty of your surroundings. With candlelight silver and glassware the night has sparkling ambience along with great food. Lunch is served at the beach bar.


Getting to White Pearl was a delightful adventure.
Our wonderful AndBeyond driver Sipo took us to the Kosi Bay border on a surfaced road. White Pearl was already waiting on the other side with the essential 4wd. Then we drove on a sand track – that criss crossed grasslands and then lush tangled dune forest.
The atmosphere of southern Mozambique is relaxed, cheerful. Clean picturesque villages with reed houses and paintings on walls ( all by the same artist), offered little pubs and restaurants well frequented by young tourists who seemed to be camping within easy reach of beaches.
This is the same road you follow if you fly from Maputo by light plane, as the air strip is near the Kosi Bay border with South Africa. However an airstrip closer to White Pearl is under construction.

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